An early morning mist rolls across the cold autumn waters of the
Squamish River, as the first rays of sunlight flicker through the
golden leaves of the cottonwood trees lining the river’s bank. A bald
eagle swoops down and lands on a sandbar on the far side of the river,
its talons piercing the soft black sand. After neatly folding its
wings it hops awkwardly across the sandbar towards a shallow pool at
the edge of the river. A movement in the shallow water reveals the
dorsal fin of a large chum salmon. A few strides from its prey, the
eagle bursts into the air and pounces on the salmon. With its wings
straining under the weight of its 10-kilogram breakfast, the bald
eagle slowly lifts the thrashing salmon out of the water and heads for
its perch on one of the tall cottonwoods.
This scene is repeated numerous times each year between November
and February, when thousands of bald eagles congregate along the
Squamish River near the small community of Brackendale, to feast on
chum salmon. Brackendale is located off highway 99 about 85 kilometres
north of Vancouver. For more information contact the Brackendale Art
Gallery at 604-898-3333.
However, eagle watching is only one of the many spectacular
wildlife-viewing opportunities awaiting you in British Columbia. BC’s
large tracks of pristine wilderness and nutrient-rich coastal waters
support a rich and diverse wildlife population. The best part is that
the wildlife is very accessible, so you don’t have to hike for days
into the wilderness see it.
For
example, almost half of Canada’s 13,000 grizzly bears live in BC and
there is no better time to see them than in late fall when they gather
along coastal rivers to feed on the returning salmon. Grizzlies are
omnivores, meaning they eat just about everything including plants,
berries, small mammals and, of course, salmon. Each fall they gather
along BC’s salmon spawning streams to gorge themselves and bulk-up in
preparation for their winter hibernation.
A great place to see large numbers of grizzlies in their natural
habitat is Glendale Cove in the Knight Inlet, about 300 kilometres
north of Vancouver. Here you can observe the bears from one of the
five viewing platforms erected along the banks of the Glendale River.
Tide Rip Tours Ltd. (1-888-643-9319 or 1-877-636-9572;
www.tiderip.com),
offers daily trips to Glendale Cove from Telegraph Cove on Vancouver
Island. Knight Inlet Lodge offers 3-day bear watching safaris, call
(250) 334-8858 or 1-877-764-4286, or visit
www.knightinletlodge.com for more information. Near to Knight
Inlet, Homalco Wildlife Tours has daily grizzly viewing trips to Bute
Inlet from Campbell River on Vancouver Island. Call (250) 923-0758 or
1-866-234-BEAR (2327), or visit
www.bearsofbute.com.
Speaking of salmon, no visit to BC would be complete without
witnessing the world’s largest sockeye salmon run. Each October the
placid, clear waters of the Adams River in Roderick Haig-Brown
Provincial Park, are transformed into a frenzied stage where the drama
of renewal and death unfolds before your eyes. In some years there are
exceptionally large runs called 'dominant runs.' This is a
dominant-run year and more than 100,000 visitors will flock to the
park to see the river teem with the crimson mass of nearly 2 million
sockeye
salmon. You can view the salmon from special platforms erected along
the riverbank or from small bridges that span the smaller feeder
streams. Park rangers lead narrated walks along the riverbank and give
informal presentations at the viewing platforms. Most of the spawning
takes place in the shallow waters within a meter or so of the
riverbank. The park is located about 60 kilometres east of Kamloops
off Highway 1. Just follow the bright red salmon signs pointing the
way to the park. For more information visit
www.salmonsociety.com.
For the more adventurous type, Paradise Found Adventures on
Vancouver Island offers the unique experience of snorkeling with
salmon in the Campbell River. They provide all the equipment including
wet suits and guides and you float down the river over the spawning
beds filled with hundreds of salmon. This once in a lifetime
experience runs each year from July to the end of October. For more
information call 1-800-897-2872, or visit
www.paradisefound.bc.ca.
Another must see BC wildlife event is the arrival of 25,000 lesser
snow geese from Wrangel Island in the Siberian Arctic. The geese
arrive at the George C. Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary about November
and feed in the sanctuary’s marshy coastal bays and salt-water mud
flats until April. Each day the geese leave the open fields adjoining
the sanctuary and fly out to the coastal mud flats to feed. Few
wildlife experiences can match the spectacle of 25,000 large white
geese taking flight at the same time. The deafening sound of thousands
of flapping wings and incessant honking fills the blue morning sky.
The sanctuary is located in Delta, 8 kilometres west of the small town
of Ladner (about 20 kilometres south of Vancouver). For information
contact 604-946-6980, or visit
www.reifelbirdsanctuary.com.
Some of BC’s other famous wildlife includes humpback, orca and gray
whales, plains bison, wolves, big horn sheep and moose. In fact BC’s
spectacular wildlife is so extraordinary and so accessible, the
biggest problem you will have is deciding which ones to see.