From
Fly-Fishing to Fly-In Fishing, BC Has It All
by Jennifer Hamilton
Spread throughout a vast and magnificent
wilderness, British Columbia's fly-in fishing lodges bring a whole new
meaning to getting away from it all. As the term suggests, "fly-in"
fishing locations are lakes and other outback water systems that can
only be accessed by airplane - usually of the small, two-engine
variety. But by no means does backcountry mean backward, and the range
of amenities offered at these remote resorts is as varied as the
colours on a rainbow trout, from fine dining and luxury suites to camp
coffee and log cabins.
Take
Crazy Bear
Lake Lodge in BC’s Cariboo-Chilcotin Forest Region. Remote, wild,
pristine and rustic, Crazy Bear is as unspoiled as unspoiled gets. It
doesn’t offer five-star meals and massage therapy – it doesn’t have to
because its clients come for one thing and one thing only: the pure
joy of fishing in total wilderness. "The air is so clean and clear on
a moonlit night you can sit outside and read a newspaper," says owner
Frank Naumann. "There’s no pollution, no noise, no phones, no
electricity. The solitude is absolute."
Until you hook a scrappy wild rainbow trout.
Measuring up to 60 centimetres, these fearless, feisty fish will put
up a ferocious fight to avoid capture. That said, catches of up to 30
fish per day are not unusual, the bulk of which are released (Naumann
will smoke up to six fish for your departure).
Float tubes, fins, boats and motors are
available at each of the six lakes surrounding the lodge where it’s
nestled among the snow-capped mountains and glaciers of BC’s rugged
coastal range. Guests are on their own to hike as far as their energy
and spirit allow and ought not to miss spending a night away from the
lodge in a traditional Indian teepee equipped with sleeping bags and
cooking utensils.
According
to Naumann, Europeans and Americans are particularly attracted to
fly-in fishing adventures, though Canadians still generally form the
largest portion of the clientele. Some lodges will provide guides,
while others (like Crazy Bear) let guests loose to explore the
freshwater lakes and streams on their own. Most operations also
provide guests with the equipment they'll need to successfully fish in
the area, including rods and reels (fly, spin or troll), tackle and
lures, plus a variety of boats. Trips are usually all-inclusive
multi-day affairs, costing an average of $600 per day.
There’s nothing average about the luxurious
Sonora Resort,
though, including the price, which runs about double the average. The
fly-in Haida-style resort located near Campbell River on Sonora Island
boasts a gamut of ways to spoil yourself including fine wine and
dining, spa treatments, spectacular theme suites and a resistance lap
pool to name a few. Oh, and the fishing. There’s freshwater fishing
accessible by jet boat or helicopter, but the area’s legendary salmon
fishing is definitely the marquee attraction. Troll the waters for all
five Pacific salmon species – chinook, coho, pink, chum and sockeye –
under the tutelage of expert guides in the calm waters of the inside
passage.
Sound too cushy for a fishing adventure? Then
head to BC’s north coast to the Queen Charlotte Islands where fishing
is no day at the beach. Brutal ocean conditions like howling winds,
lashing rain and Gravol-popping swells occasionally occur – though
most often it’s the fishing that’s extreme while the weather is
sedate, explains Martin Paish, general manager of Northern Resorts
which includes the fly-in
MV Salmon Seeker. "This is the most productive fishing off the
coast of BC. On a bad day, you’re hooking a dozen. On a good day, up
to 40 – and that’s at least a half hour per fish so you can imagine
how dynamic the environment is."
One
minute, you’re scanning the ocean surface to glimpse a dolphin or a
humpback whale; next, your reel is spinning wildly, the line is
screaming and a violent, desperate pull is straining muscles you never
knew you had. The next hour is a battle of power and will as you fight
to land a mighty salmon that can weigh up to 35 kilograms.
For some people, this adrenaline-pumping
adventure is the perfect escape from the drudgery of daily life. But
for those who seek peace and quite to rejuvenate, BC’s fly-in fishing
scene offers far more tranquil getaways. Case in point:
Diana Lake Lodge.
Located in BC’s spectacular Rocky Mountains, this solitary log cabin
sits in a flower-strewn meadow between a sparkling, trout-filled
mountain lake and a bubbling, crystal clear stream. There are no
motorised vehicles here, no gift shops and no neighbours (unless you
count the abundant local wildlife). Access is by helicopter and the
lake, which sees very little fishing pressure, is teeming with dolly
varden, rainbow and cutthroat trout ready to be caught (and released)
by the fly angler or spin caster. The rustic, private cabin is
equipped with propane heat, hot water, showers, lights, a wood stove,
gas range and fridge and all meals are included.
For anyone visiting world-famous Whistler,
pristine wilderness is but a 50-minute float-plane ride away, over
beautiful glaciers and water falls to a remote mountain lake to
fly-fish for rainbow trout and dolly varden char. Through
Valley Fishing
Guides, you can book for one night or up to seven in the rustic
log Lohetta Lodge where everything including meals, fishing gear and
instruction is included.
British Columbia’s salmon scene may be the
province’s prime fishing attraction, but for anglers who live to
explore, this majestic land of rivers, lakes and mountains is about
far more than just salmon fishing. "In terms of access to public
fisheries, diversity of species and overall esthetics, BC is the mecca
for sport fishing in Canada, if not the world," says Travis Lowe, a
guide with Rocky Mountain Angler. From the Rockies to the waters off
the West Coast, the province is home to countless trout, salmon and
steelhead streams, thousands of freshwater lakes and the open waters
of the Pacific, all offering unparalleled opportunities for anglers of
every skill level.
There’s
top notch fly-in fishing lodges throughout BC. The following are just
a few more options for the adventurous angler.
Fortress Lake
Lodge: Located in Hamber Provincial Park in the spectacular BC
Rockies, Fortress Lake is teeming with wild stocks of eastern brook
trout. Six rustic cabins accommodate just 12 guests at a time and the
hearty meals are all old-fashioned goodness, the perfect compliment to
the rugged, magnificent setting.
Caverhill
Fishing Lodge: Built in 1947, the wilderness tradition is alive
and well at Caverhill, located 100 kilometres north of Kamloops in the
beautiful Thompson-Okanagan. Fish for the famous kamloops trout in
over 15 pristine lakes from the classic wooden boats which make for a
unique exploring experience. Relax in the authentic Finnish sauna and
embrace the silence of a solar-powered resort.
Sund’s Lodge:
Renowned for its great fishing, exquisite dining and splendid service,
Sund’s Lodge is located on the inside passage of Vancouver Island on
peaceful Malcolm Island. Professional guides and protected waters
abundant with all five species of salmon ensure a productive fishing
experience topped off with the superb comforts of this exclusive
lodge.