It
has been a long day - exhilarating and exhausting. We have skied up
and down several mountain peaks in the spectacularly remote Selkirk
Range of the British Columbia Rockies. We are literally in the middle
of nowhere. Many kilometres - and a helicopter ride - from
Revelstoke,
the nearest town. But tonight, instead of crawling into a cold, damp
tent and melting some snow to make instant soup, my fellow backcountry
skiers and I will luxuriate in the cozy warmth of a tastefully
decorated chalet, while dining on four courses of mouth-watering
European-style cuisine.
We are enjoying the hospitality of Ruedi Beglinger and his wife,
Nicoline. The Beglingers own and operate
Selkirk
Mountain Experience, a remote backcountry ski operation which
allows skiers to get away from it all, without leaving the luxuries
behind. The Beglinger's Durrand Glacier Chalet looks like something
right out of the Swiss Alps (and if Ruedi is having a particularly
great day, you will hear him yodelling down the mountainside just like
he did in his native Switzerland). Selkirk Mountain Experience is just
one of several backcountry ski operations in BC which have recognized
that while people may desire a wilderness experience, they still want
great food and a comfortable bed to sleep in.
Purcell Lodge near Golden is the largest and most luxurious of the
remote backcountry operations. Like all of the remote lodges in BC, it
is only accessible by helicopter. In fact, all of the building
materials for the deluxe 3-storey structure were flown in by chopper,
too. Purcell Lodge accommodates up to 30 people and has showers, flush
toilets and electricity. Their dining room has even been reviewed by
Gourmet Magazine. During the day, you have the option of exploring the
mountains with a fully qualified mountain guide, or if you have some
previous backcountry experience, you can take off on your own and
enjoy the peace, tranquility and awesome powder. At night, you wine
and dine in the lap of luxury, before tumbling into bed under a fluffy
duvet.
If
you don't mind roughing it just a little bit, Wells Gray Chalets near
Clearwater offers a very comfortable experience at a bargain price.
They have three chalets placed strategically in the Cariboo Mountains
in
Wells Gray Provincial Park. You can spend a few days at each
chalet, or hunker down in one cabin and use it as your base. Each
chalet has clean, cozy rooms and a sauna. As well as finding the best
- and safest - ski runs, the guides do the cooking and cleaning, with
a bit of help from the guests. It keeps the costs down and there is a
satisfying sense of participation.
Families with young children who want a wilderness experience might
want to check out
Tyax Mountain Lake Resort near Gold Bridge. Tyax is
accessible by car - just a five-hour drive from Vancouver - but it is
still very remote, tucked away in the Chilcotin Mountains. You can
stay in the Lodge - with its 30-foot high stone fireplace - or in one
of the self-contained lakeside chalets. There are lots of
cross-country ski trails, as well as skating, sleigh rides, snowmobile
tours and a spectacular outdoor hot tub.
After we take off our ski gear, we head for the sauna at Selkirk
Mountain Experience. All of the backcountry operators know there is
nothing like relaxing in a steamy, hot sauna after a long day in the
mountains. As our muscles start to unwind, a deep healthy glow moves
through our bodies. It becomes almost impossible to move. The only
thing that finally stirs me from my lethargy is remembering that
Nicoline and her kitchen staff have prepared a delicious selection of
aprhs-ski appetizers. This is definitely roughing it in style!