THE JOYS OF SMALL TOWN, BC
by Jane Lang (with additional material from the Alert Bay Visitor
Info Centre)Sleepy streets with only
occasional traffic; pleasant shops where clerks are eager to chat as
well as serve; restaurants with 'hearty' instead of 'nouveau' cuisine
are all part of small town, British Columbia. While we all enjoy the
myriad attractions of large cities, there’s a lot to be said for
visiting the quieter side of life. As well as being laid-back, these
ten towns and villages hold surprises as diverse as stunning beaches
and astounding artworks.
Chemainus
In the early 1980's, this compact Vancouver Island town had a better
idea. Instead of lamenting the close of a sawmill, the community
leaders chose to pretty-up their waterfront village. Today over 33
larger-than-life historical murals done by a variety of Canadian
artists, make a walking tour as impressive as a visit to a high-end
gallery. Enjoyable year-round, there is an annual celebration of these
dynamic works, July through October at the Festival of Murals. (Chemainus
is 77 km north of Victoria).
Alert Bay
The 'Namgis First Nation of the Kwakwaka'wakw established their
village in Alert Bay on Cormorant Island on a permanent basis in the
1870s. It is rich with First Nation culture and tradition. While here
visit: U’mista Cultural Centre, see a dance performance by the
T’sasala Cultural Group (July and August) in our traditional Big
House, see the world’s tallest Totem Pole, ‘Namgis Burial
Grounds-memorial and other Totem Poles, Alert Bay Library-Museum,
Alert Bay Ecological Park, galleries, etc. Alert Bay is reached by
ferry from Port McNeill, near the northeast tip of Vancouver Island.
Tofino
This fishing village becomes busy with
tourists in summer months but it is a joy to visit year-round.
Surrounded by deep forests and close to what is possibly Canada’s most
impressive beach -- Long Beach in Pacific Rim National Park -- Tofino
is the ideal getaway where you stay in a cosy or classy B&B, dine on
succulent seafood, tour pristine islands, whale watch and visit the
Roy Vickers' 'Eagle Aerie Gallery'. Art aficionados will be in their
element here but so will hikers, kayakers, anglers and beach-walkers.
In winter, the main attraction is storm-watching. (Tofino is on the
west coast of Vancouver Island reached after a spectacular wilderness
drive on Highway 4.)
Gibsons
Located on the Sunshine Coast, the harbour-front of Gibsons is picture
perfect. Dine at Molly's Reach Café where the popular television
series, The Beachcombers was filmed as well as a recent new production
that will be seen soon; stroll the short sea walk; meander in and out
of friendly shops and galleries and breathe sea air. Walk onto the
wharf to admire the exquisite log building – it's a work of art – and,
eventually drive Gower Pt. Road to visit oceanfront parks. Uphill,
there is the stunning 'Gift of the Eagle' gallery. All of the Sunshine
Coast is a haven of artisans and it shows. If you fall in love with
Gibsons, book a B&B and travel on to Roberts Creek, Sechelt, Halfmoon
Bay and Pender Harbour. You won't be disappointed. (Gibsons is a
40-minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver.)
Fort
Langley
Pastoral setting, historical landmarks, and a gathering of intriguing
shops and restaurants make Fort Langley a very special place. Just ask
any of the 6,000 citizens who love where they live. The Fort – built
in 1838, the original was established in 1827 – was the first European
community in the area. You can have tea complete with lace
tablecloths, take a paddlewheeler cruise on the nearby Fraser River,
hunt for antiques, shop in a real general store and enjoy the locals’
splendid gardens. The Fort is a national historic site and a tour
relates how the area was settled and developed. The
turn-of-the-century storefronts and tree-lined streets make a stroll
here a walk back in time. It is especially pretty around Christmas and
it’s possible to cut your own tree nearby. (Fort Langley is about 47
km east of Vancouver. You can take the small Albion Ferry across the
Fraser to the north shore which makes it a great circle drive from
Vancouver.)
Kaslo
The over-a-century-old community of Kaslo is one of the BC’s oldest
towns. It’s a slice of Switzerland set on a delta of the Kaslo River
and nestled between the Selkirk and Purcell Mountain ranges. Leafy
streets, Victorian-style homes, heritage storefronts and the doorway
to wilderness, means locations don’t get much better than this. Once
you’ve seen Kaslo, you may yearn to set up house here, especially if
you are an outdoor-lover. It offers all-season sports: in warm weather
it attracts hikers, mountaineers and water sport buffs and in chillier
months it is a playground for snowmobilers, skiers, boarders and
single-track aficionados. (Kaslo is located in the Kootenays about an
hour’s drive north of Nelson.)
Golden
Snuggled amid the peaks of the Rocky Mountains and at the confluence
of the Kicking Horse and Columbia Rivers, the town of Golden holds
many secrets. Although two highways run through it, it still boasts an
enviable lifestyle. There are peaceful routes through forests and high
mountain areas where lodges meld luxury with wilderness. You are more
apt to see a moose than a street light in this countryside. Mountain
and river activities abound: snowmobiling, mountaineering, heli-skiing,
hang-gliding, rafting, kayaking and fishing. Now Kicking Horse
Mountain Resort has opened which may prove to be the ultimate in
powder skiing. First reports label it as having ‘the champagne of
powders’. Golden epitomizes a Rocky Mountain community. (Golden is
located about 78 km west of Lake Louise.)
Naramata
Beyond sleepy, the Okanagan town of Naramata has the look and feel of
being an 'end of the road' journey. A visit to Naramata is a step back
to the fifties. Visit vineyards, stroll sun-spangled streets, buy
fresh fruit from a roadside stand, walk or cycle the Kettle Valley
Railway and delight in water sports on Okanagan Lake. This is the best
of the Okanagan but away from the crowds plus there are several
wilderness parks to explore. (Naramata is 17 km north of Pentiction)
Wells
Gold was the incentive for creating this town and today wooden
sidewalks and interesting storefronts recall these raucous days. Fun
archival photography in the old Wells Hotel, a handful of excellent
galleries and a small museum beckon. Most people visit on their way to
Barkerville (8 km further) or to one of the four nearby provincial
parks. Stay in Wells a night, and spend a day in Barkerville to brush
up on your Gold Rush history, then paddle the amazing waterways in
Bowron Lake Provincial Park. In winter, cross-country skiing and
snowshoeing in the untouched backcountry is for the experienced or the
guided. Sometimes these off-the-beaten-stops are the most memorable.
(Wells is reached by turning on highway 26 5 km past Quesnel and
travelling 80 km)
Atlin
British Columbia's most northwesterly town sits on the eastern
shoreline of Atlin Lake, the province's largest natural lake.
Picturesque bright and pastel-painted houses and shops, colourful
gardens and the glorious northern light make Atlin a place of beauty.
It helps that lush forests, misty mornings and glorious glaciers are
part of the scene. The hardy souls who reside here are friendly and
point visitors to: air charters above ice fields, hiking trails, canoe
and kayak excursions, gold panning spots and crystalline streams to be
fished. (Atlin is near the Yukon Border on highway 7.)