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BC's Other Winter Sports
by
Sue Kernaghan

It’s no secret that British Columbia offers some of the best outdoor adventures in the world.

A better-kept secret is when to come.

Spring, summer and fall have their charms, but for many British Columbians, winter is when things get really interesting.

Surfing, for example, is a year round sport in BC, especially on the west coast of Vancouver Island, where five- to eight-meter winter waves, triggered by tsunamis off Japan, bring out the most dedicated surfers.

Although the big surf is best left to the steel-nerved regulars, local outfitters offer beginners’ surfing lessons near the shore throughout the winter. Tofino’s Inner Rhythm Surf Shop offers two-hour winter lessons for all levels.

But you don’t have to head into the water to experience the drama of a West Coast winter storm. Bill McIntyre, a biologist and former chief naturalist at Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, runs Long Beach Nature tours in Ucluelet. One of his more popular offerings is a Storm Seekers’ Hike, where you bundle up well and watch nature’s fury play out from safe viewing points along the shoreline.

Inland winters are just as exciting. Skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing abound throughout the mountainous interior, but there are also plenty of less obvious ways to enjoy the cooler months.

At Brackendale Eagles’ Park, about an hour north of Vancouver, for example, river rafting takes on a seasonal twist. Between November and February each year, the world’s largest concentration of bald eagles gather to feed on salmon. Watching the birds from a gently floating raft on the Cheakamus River is one of the best ways to observe the eagles without disturbing them. The Canadian Outback Adventure Company has details.

Looking for a little more adrenaline? Experienced rock climbers may want to try the winter version of their sport: Ice climbing. Frozen waterfalls in the deep canyons near the town of Lillooet are among the most popular ice climbing platforms in the Coast Mountains.

“The cold weather needed for ice climbing is more reliable there,” says Brian Jones, director of Canada West Mountain School (CWMS).  The Vancouver-based school runs scheduled courses for experienced rock climbers; custom ice climbing courses are also available for beginners.

For a more down-to-earth way to enjoy the winter wilderness, CWMS also offers snow camping courses. Held in Vancouver’s North Shore mountains, near Whistler, and in the Coquihalla area, these overnighters are "great for anyone," says Jones. "We build igloos or snow shelters and learn about avalanche safety and how to spend the night comfortably in the snow."

Just as climbing and camping have broken the bonds of summer, so has scuba diving.

BC’s sea life is vibrant and plentiful year round, but local divers agree that winter is best. That’s when the view-obscuring plankton dies off and visibility can reach to 150 feet, with water clarity rivaling that of the most popular Caribbean dive sites.

Readers of Rodale’s Scuba Diving, a leading US dive magazine, have consistently selected BC’s waters -- known as the Emerald Sea -- as North America’s best dive destination. The late Jacques Cousteau is said to have ranked the Emerald Sea among his top two dive spots -- second only to the Red Sea.

Brent Mayall, owner of the Vancouver-based BC Dive and Kayak Adventures, agrees: "Diving is viewed as a summer sport because the temperatures are more pleasant then, but the best diving in BC is definitely in the wintertime."

And cold isn’t really an issue, he adds. “BC waters are listed as cold, but compared to, say, San Diego, our waters are only a few degrees cooler. Regardless, you will be encased in so much neoprene insulation that at the worst it will feel like sitting in a cool swimming pool.”

Most winter divers in BC use a dry suit, which keeps you dry and allows you to wear layers of clothing underneath. "You do need special dry suit training, but that only takes one evening in pool and a few dives. We offer it as part of our course," explains Mayall.

BC Dive and Kayak Adventures offers day trips from Vancouver to the flora- and fauna- rich waters of Howe Sound and Indian Arm.

Excellent diving is also to be found near Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, thanks to two popular -- and safe-- artificial reefs and an abundance of marine life.

Other top dive sites include God’s Pocket Provincial Park, near Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, where the underwater scenery wowed M. Cousteau, and the Sunshine Coast’s Saltery Bay Provincial Park, home to the Emerald Princess, Canada's first underwater statue.

Back on the surface, a more traditional winter pass-time that’s gaining huge popularity as a sport, as a thrill ride, and as a low-impact way to get around the backcountry, is dogsledding. Most BC ski resorts offer short trips for beginners, while several companies offer longer day and overnight lodge-based journeys.

With Alaskan Husky Adventures, based in Clearwater near the pristine wilderness of Wells Gray Park, you can drive your own team of huskies, or ride along. The Alaskan racing dogs are friendly, the untouched winter landscape is pure magic and, at the end of the day, you can park your team at a cozy backcountry lodge.

In fact, this is how most BC winter adventures end. Whether you’ve spent the day diving, surfing, ice climbing, river rafting, or dog sledding, you will -- unless you’re curling up in an igloo of your own design -- finish the day like this: a cozy lodge, a roaring fire, and a passionate discussion about the next off-beat sport to try.

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